What is Phulkari?
Several years after Punjab’s traditional embroidery, Phulkari, secured the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) tag, the craftspersons who keep the centuries-old practice alive continue to struggle for recognition and a sustainable livelihood.
- Phulkari, meaning “flower work,” is a traditional embroidery art of Punjab.
- There are various theories about the origin of phulkari.
- Some believe this embroidery dates back to the 7th century CE, while others suggest it originated from Iran, where it was known as Gulkari.
- However, distinct styles of phulkari have been identified, making it uniquely Punjabi.
- References to phulkari can be found in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature, with the earliest mention in the 18th-century Punjabi literature.
- It received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2010.
- It’s an amalgam of cotton and silk.
- The cloth used is usually hand-woven thick cotton, called ‘ khadder’. While the threads are thin, lustrous, and breakable silk, called ‘pat’.
- The cloth is usually dyed red, but can be white, grey, or black
- And the treads are a myriad of colors, ranging from the rich dark pink to soothing off-whites.
- The stitch is intricate, small, and completely fills the cloth. The stitch can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal to create the shadow effect.
- Phulkari embroidery makes use of the least complicated patterns to create extremely intriguing designs.
- The designs and patterns can vary from geometrical figures to flowers to local fauna. Peacocks, elephants, birds, and camels appear frequently.
- Phulkari’s product range includes embroidered chaddars, dupattas, and stoles, traditionally worn by brides or for ceremonies.
